| Actual Image
Aquarium Photos - Tips & Techniques 3 (86)
loot
![Gold Star Critiquer/Gold Star Workshop Editor/Gold Note Writer [C: 5435 W: 593 N: 3649]](http://i1.treknature.com/misc/g-g-g.gif) (10027) | Orange-lined triggerfish - Balistapus undulatus
Another tropical marine specimen that was captured at the fabulous uShaka Marine World aquarium, in Durban and it is the first photo of this species on TrekNature. This triggerfish was captured in a different tank than my previous 3 postings. There is no natural sunlight shining into this tank and so it was not possible to attain the same bluish background. When a diver take to the water he/she does not expect to find the same scenario or environment repetitively as the underwater wonder world are filled with variety and amazingly diversified habitats. So, with aquarium photography one should also guard that all the photos or images do not end up looking the same, with the same background, the same plant or coral life, the same habitat, etc. A variation in spice is the flavour of life.
Description
No groove in front of eye. Greenish to dark brown with oblique curved orange lines on posterior head and body; an oblique band of narrow blue and orange stripes from around the mouth to below the pectoral fin; a large round black blotch around peduncular spines; rays of soft dorsal, anal and pectoral fins orange; caudal fin orange. The curved orange-striped colour pattern is unmistakable for this species. Max size = 30cm.
Distribution
Indo-Central Pacific: Red Sea south to Natal, South Africa and east to the Line, Marquesan and Tuamoto islands, north to southern Japan, south to the southern Great Barrier Reef and New Caledonia.
Habitat
Occurs in coral-rich areas of deep lagoon and seaward reefs from the lower surge zone to at least 50 meters. Has a territorial nature. Eggs laid as one cluster in a shallow excavation on sand or rubble along channels.
Diet
Feeds on a variety of benthic organisms such as algae, echinoderms, fishes, mollusks, tunicates, sponges, and hydrozoans. Source
With that out of the way, let's continue with our topic…
Tips and Techniques for Aquarium Photography – Part 3
I very quickly realised that aquarium photography is not as easy as one might tend to think. The glass (reflection, scratches, and smear marks) is a definitive, but conquerable handicap. Add to that the density or clarity of the water, the shiny surfaces of the fish (especially so with silvery specimens), other fish that continuously dart in between, the colourful and sometimes close proximity of water plants, coral, and certain other reef associated organisms, crowds of people (particularly children – Please see the workshop) who may shove and jostle for a better view. All these variable factors often culminate in a rather difficult shoot. Fortunately we have digital which means we can experiment and throw away what is not quite right at no real loss or cost. However, there are numerous precautions and actions we can perform to ensure success. The technique used and how it is applied will determine the overall success of the end photo. Let's discuss some of these issues…
Understanding the LCD image
One of the essential aspects for successful aquarium photography is the ability to correctly interpret the captured image on the LCD display of the camera. Do not only trust the image display on the LCD. I cannot deal with this extensive subject here and for those of you who perhaps don't know how to work with the "histogram” and the overexposure "blinkies" on the display it would be advisable to do some research to learn more about this very important aspect of digital photography. For your convenience I have included two links that adequately explains the use of the histogram on Link-1 or Link-2 and if you want to know more about "blinkies" you are welcome to do a further Google search on the Internet. You will find many forum sites dealing with this aspect.
Once you are back home after a visit to an aquarium it might be very disappointing and highly frustrating to find that many of the photos that looked so good on the LCD actually were either over exposed or under exposed. Sorry, that would be too late, because once back home the aquarium might be too far away and there might be no second chance for a re-shoot.
The fish or subject
It is best to photograph fish that are well established and settled in a tank and thus obviously stress free. This is especially so for the home aquarium photographer as we see a number of these postings here on TREKNature. Make sure you work with healthy, attractive specimens with flattering fins that are relaxed and appears natural. Stressed fish clearly show their out-of-condition or unhealthy state on photos and more than likely these fish might be infected with some disease.
Habitat or background
Aesthetically this is one of the most important considerations. The backgrounds of most good fish photographs contain some natural elements, but one should be very careful that the sometimes highly colourful corals, live plants, rocks, driftwood, and gravel do not become overwhelming on the shot. Too much background colour could rob the actual fish subject from its visual appeal. One also needs to make sure that there is no unsightly aquarium gadgetry or paraphernalia like electric cords or air tubing visible in the shot. It seems like the best results are those photos where the background is somewhat isolated and just faintly reflect the natural habitat. I would normally study a specific tank to find those "sweet spots" that meets or satisfy the needs as already described and that is the place where I want the fish to swim or stay when I shoot my photos. This is where patience is the essential key. You cannot coach a fish to go where you want it to be and you need to wait for the opportune moment when the fish might "someday" decide to go to those spots or areas. Once the fish is in a sweet spot, I simply focus and shoot, being assured of an attractive and hopefully problem-free background.
Sorry, but we're out of space once again. To be continued...
Post Processing was done with Adobe Photoshop CS2. |
|
